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Puttanesca Risotto with Roasted Tomatoes—risotto alla puttanesca con pomodori arrosto—is chef Cesare Battisti's take on one of Italy's most familiar pasta sauces, developed for the vodcast "Discorsi in osteria" and built around a dish close to Fra Marcello's heart. Battisti, who runs Milan's Ratanà, keeps every classic puttanesca ingredient but treats each one differently: cherry tomatoes slow-roast with garlic and thyme, get blended into a puree, then go back into the oven to concentrate into the deeply flavored base that holds the whole bowl together.
That double-stage roasted tomato cream sets the tone. Capers are fried until crisp rather than used straight from the brine. Black olives are ground to a powder, adding a sharp, faintly bitter edge and giving the finished dish a look that matches the effort. Anchovy sauce and parsley go on last, tying the bold, contrasting flavors into something coherent rather than crowded.
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To make the puttanesca risotto with roasted tomatoes, start with the tomato cream. Cut the tomatoes into large pieces 1. Put them in a baking dish with a pinch of salt 2 and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) 3.
Season with the unpeeled garlic cloves 4 and the thyme 5. Bake in a preheated conventional oven at 284 °F for a couple of hours 6.
Once softened, blend the tomatoes 7 until you obtain a purée 8. At this point spread the purée on a baking tray lined with parchment paper 9 and leave it in a preheated conventional oven at 176 °F for about 1 hour.
In a small saucepan heat the vegetable oil and immerse the desalted capers 10; fry them for a few moments 11 and drain them on paper towels 12.
Meanwhile the roasted tomato cream will also be ready 13, set it aside. In a pot, toast the rice dry 14, then deglaze with hot broth 15 until it just covers the rice. Start cooking over medium-high heat; when it begins to simmer, lower the heat. Continue stirring the risotto, adding a ladleful of broth at a time as you see the rice has fully absorbed the previous addition.
With 10 minutes remaining in the cooking time, add the roasted tomato cream 16 and bring back to a simmer. When cooking is complete, turn off the heat and finish by stirring in cold butter and Lodigiano cheese 17. Let the risotto rest for 3 minutes 18 so the temperature drops: the risotto should be served at 122 °F, not piping hot like pasta, otherwise the flavors are lost.
Season with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil 19, chopped parsley, a drizzle of anchovy sauce, the powdered black olives and the fried capers 20. The puttanesca risotto with roasted tomatoes is ready to enjoy 21.